For the first Berlin Unwrapped blog of 2015 here is something really special – a traditional pub/restaurant dating back to pre-war Berlin. As its name implies, the Kurzpfalz-Weinstuben specialises in food and wine from the Rheinland-Pfalz region of South Germany, where the wife of the original owner came from. It first opened in 1935 and the current owner, Rainer Schulz, has been there since 1975 and in 2015 celebrates 60 years in the catering trade. This makes 2015 a triple ‘Jubiläumsjahr’ for the Kurpfalz-Weinstuben. No doubt there will be events to mark these anniversaries throughout the year, although Herr Schulz tells me that he was so busy over the Christmas period that he hasn’t had time to plan anything yet.
Herr Schulz with the carefully-selected wines and behind the bar
The word ‘Weinstuben’ means ‘small wine rooms’ and conjures up a picture of a rustic pub with wooden tables and a cosy, dim-lit atmosphere. The Kurpfalz-Weinstuben fits this bill perfectly. It consists of three rooms, all with their original tables and chairs and decorated exactly as they were in pre-war days. You won’t find many foreign tourists here, only Berliners and German visitors who appreciate good home-cooking and excellent German wines. Try one of the delicious Pfalz specialities such as ‘Saumagen’, which could be described as a pork and potato based haggis, and wash it down with a glass of Gimmeldinger Meerspinne served in a traditional 250ml hock glass. There is often game, lamb or goose on the menu too and always a delicious Fleischspieß (meat on skewers) with salad. The wine list is mind-blowing and Herr Schulz or one of his staff is always happy to help you with your choice. If you just want a snack, order the Flammkuchen (Tarte Flambée) from Alsace or one of the cheese or cold meat platters. Everything will be beautifully served and totally authentic.
The Kurpfalz-Weinstuben is only a two minute walk from Adenauerplatz, just off the Kurfürstendamm and easily accessible by bus (M19, M29, 109), U-Bahn (Adernauerplatz) or S-Bahn (Charlottenburg). You have to look quite hard to find it behind the ugly modern buildings in the immediate area, but once across the courtyard and over the threshold you are in another, timeless world. It is amazing that this place not only survived the bombing in 1944 but also the redevelopment which followed. One word of warning – no credit cards accepted and mobile phones are definitely off limits.
Wilmersdorfer Straße 93, 10629 Berlin, Germany
Phone: 0049 30 8836664
Open: 6pm-1am Tuesdays-Saturdays, 6pm-12am Sundays, Closed on Mondays